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credited for the increase in these soups’ popu- larity. Why? Consultant Maeve Webster says it’s because consumers are extremely inter- ested in knowing where their food comes from and how it is sourced. By using fresh, seasonal produce and sourcing it from local farms and vendors, restaurateurs can tell their guests compelling stories about the soup and its value to them, their diners and the individuals who grew and harvested the ingredients.
T.J. McConnaughey, executive chef of Olympia Provisions, a farm-to-table-driven restaurant in Portland, OR, says he is excited to regularly o er his customers a variety of produce-centric soups. He focuses on using seasonal and sustainable roots and vegetables and is always experimenting with the entire vegetable, including its leafy greens, to not only increase the intensity of its avor pro le, but also reduce his back-of-the-house food waste.
“We like to use as much of the vegetable as we can,” he says. “ at’s our philosophy in general. We try to make as big an impact as possible with our guests without creating too much of a carbon footprint.”
For several years now, a number of chefs have adopted the nose-to-tail method of using the entire ingredient to cut down on food waste. is is especially true regarding the use of potatoes, says Don Odiorne, who recently exited his post as vice president of foodservice of the Idaho Potato Commission. One example, he notes, is operators taking their unused baked potatoes and turning them into what is now a menu staple at many steakhouses and casual-dining chains: the loaded baked potato soup.
HEALTHY COMFORT FOODS
Olympia Provisions’ McConnaughey says one of the restaurant’s most popular soups during the colder months is a tru e-celeriac soup made of local white and black tru e and celeriac root and topped with croutons and chives. e soup started out as a limit- ed-time o er during a tru e showcase some years ago but became so popular the restau- rant added it as a menu staple. More recently, the chef introduced his guests to a butternut squash soup with curry crème fraiche and a straight-up celery root puree that he says de nes healthful comfort foods.
“Healthful comfort is a big part of how we eat now when we eat for pleasure,” he says. “Collectively, people are trying to be healthful and make better choices across the board. At the same time, they want to have something that evokes feeling, memories. at’s why veggie soups are so popular with all of our
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customers, no matter how old they are.” Gideon agrees, saying produce-based soups, at their core, are recognized as
universal comfort food.
“Imagine it’s snowing outside and I say
to you, ‘What do you think about a cup of tomato soup and a grilled cheese sandwich?’ I bet everyone would immediately start thinking about his or her childhoods and go, ‘Yes.’ ”
Speaking of grilled cheese, Steven Klores, chef and co-owner of GCDC Grilled Cheese Bar in Washington, DC, asserts his restau- rant’s scratch-made tomato soup is not only the perfect accompaniment to the fast-casual concept’s variety of gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches, but also a perfect meal by itself, especially for its many vegetarian customers.
“O ering a scratch-made tomato soup seemed like a no-brainer,” he says. “A lot of our customers love to dip their grilled cheese in it; it’s just a great paring. And some of our other guests enjoy eating it alone, with a side of toast. We have a lot of vegetarian and some vegan customers, and we try to listen to them and give them what they want. is soup seemed to be something they really wanted.”
Klores says he makes the soup with crushed California tomatoes, a mirepoix of onion, tomato, celery, garlic, Italian seasonings and other spices. It is available in half-cup, full-cup and 16-ounce bowl size servings at price points of $2, $4 and $6, respectively.
Another tomato soup a cionado is Martha
Hoover, proprietor of Café Patachou, a healthy- dining, farm-to-table concept in Indianapolis. e restaurant, which caters to a large clien- tele of vegetarian customers, has been serving a hugely popular tomato-artichoke soup since 1989. It’s made with local and organic toma- toes, artichokes and spices, topped with shaved Parmesan and house-made croutons.
“It comes from a secret recipe and has been so popular, it’s never left our menu,” she says. “It is well-loved by guests of all ages and is just really delicious.”
Hoover also notes she is consistently seeing an increase in demand for a variety of veggie-based soups, which she attributes to the rising trend of vegetarian and vegan diets and lifestyles around the country. To accommodate the demand for more veggie- driven soups, the restaurateur is rotating in a number of other varieties, including vegan creamy cauli ower and vegan split pea.
COLD COMFORT
Although the majority of soups typi- cally are served hot, some chefs have started experimenting with cold soup options in both sweet and savory avor pro les. Denver- based chef Dave Woolley says gazpacho, a chilled tomato-based soup, as well as a watermelon and dragon fruit combination are popular with guests during the summer months. Mango also is showing up in some cold soup applications. At Tapa Toro restau-
Stout Onion Soup
PHOTO COURTESY OF NATIONAL ONION ASSOCIATION