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CPMA CONVENTION SUPPLEMENT
TORONTO FOODSERVICE PROFILE
IL COVO ~ Cicchetti e Vino
Offering cOmfOrt in traditiOn, yet pushing bOundaries as well.
IBy Jodean Robbins
n Toronto’s traditional Little Italy neigh- borhood, diners can find an eclectic mix of old world meeting an urban vibe in Il Covo restaurant. “We wanted to bring a slight contemporary vibe to the charm
of Little Italy,” says Ryan Campbell, chef and co-owner. “Il Covo is an intimate, curious place with some whimsical touches where our guests can find exceptional food in a casual relaxed atmosphere.”
Open only a little more than two months, the 55-seat restaurant is the inspi- ration of Campbell and partner Giuseppe Marchesini, general manager. Campbell explains Il Covo is Toronto’s local cicchet- teria — cicchetti [chee-KET-eeh] being the Venetian word for small plates. “We wanted to create a casual home with an emphasis on simple Italian cuisine drawing inspi- ration from every region within the vast country of Italy,” he says.
FRESH, AUTHENTIC PRODUCT
Il Covo’s cuisine begins with getting fresh, authentic flavors for Campbell to work with. “We buy from a number of different produce suppliers because each offers different things,” he says. “We have very specific needs in organic and specialty items.”
Campbell sources from several distrib- utors pulling product from the Ontario Food Terminal and merchants such as The Royal Produce Co. in Etobicoke, ON. He also buys local when in-season. In fact, for some unique items, Campbell teams with local growers to ensure the authenticity of the product. “For example, we brought cipollini onion seeds back from Italy when we visited there,” he says. “We gave them to our local organic farmers to grow specif- ically for us.”
The restaurant spends approximately US$1,500 per week on produce, setting
high standards for taste and smell. “I feel and smell the product,” says Campbell. “I’m less concerned about appearance than I am about flavor and aroma. I can cut a blemish out of a carrot but can’t make it flavorful or fragrant. When I source product, I’m looking for optimum flavor and ripeness. Our regular suppliers know what we are looking for.”
Campbell uses seasonality to ensure peak flavor. “We plan our menu and source around optimum seasonality,” he says. “We do an amazing job of supporting our local farmers, but we also source a lot of products we can’t grow optimally here. We also try to get products from Italy as often as possible, for authenticity.”
FRESH, AUTHENTIC FLAVORS
Il Covo’s food is created with bright, crisp and clear flavors, where carefully sourced ingredients speak for themselves. Campbell notes produce is an especially important component of bringing flavor and freshness to every dish. “Produce is huge for us,” he says. “There is a legacy and tradition of fresh produce in Italian cuisine.”
Approximately 90 percent of Il Covo’s menu has produce within the dish. “Every dish has some type of produce ingredient,”
PHOTOO COURTESY OF RENEE SUEN
says Campbell. “However, we also have a section called Dall’ Orto (meaning from the garden) showcasing produce as the star.”
Campbell’s inventive menu adds a twist to traditional Italian cuisine often via produce. The Toma di Capra layers a blood orange rose on top of goat’s milk cheese. The Insalata Liquida stages a liquid presentation of gem lettuce, peppers, abate pear, fennel pollen, pink peppercorn and biancolilla olive oil. The Quadrettini incorporates sunchoke, sheep’s milk cheese, chili and mint with small squares of fresh pasta.
The restaurant’s menu changes season- ally, and Campbell reports even adding last- minute inspiration at times. “As of a month ago, I had never seen a lemonquat,” he says. “Joe Scali of Royal brought me one. They are from Spain, with a season of only a few weeks but are a phenomenal product. So I started thinking how we could utilize it and made some menu additions because of it.” pb
Insalata Liquida
10 / APRIL 2018 / PRODUCE BUSINESSCPMA CONVENTION SUPPLEMENT
Quadrettini
Ryan Campbell and Giuseppe Marchesini
IL COVO - CICCHETTI E VINO
585 College St. Toronto, ON M6G 1B2, Canada Tel: 416-530-7585 Hours:
Sun-Wed: 5:30 pm to 11 pm Thurs-Sat: 5:30 pm to 12 am